Chinese germs are a particularly nasty breed, and my typical hygenic American upbringing did not prepare my immune system to wage war against them. Again, I have a terrible cold. But this is the first time I've had a cold that made me achy and gave me fever. It kept me from going out last weekend and I even cancelled class one day, so I decided I'd try a traditional Chinese remedy. Along with the occassional Aleve Cold & Sinus I've been taking some herbs, which seem to help the cold move along. Besides the herbs though, I decided to try a traditional Chinese massage, gua sha.
This massage is special because they not only massage you, but use a piece of cow horn (traditionally it is cow horn, but it is sometimes plastic, jade, or stone) to scrape your back. My friend Michelle had a bad cold when she got to China and a student of her's had taken her to get it done. She said it helped.
So we showed up at the massage parlor yesterday and they led me upstairs. It is a ladies only massage parlor. I was led into the room that said "Rose" on the door on a gold placard. The room smelled like rose oil and was pink and warm. A woman was laying on one of the four beds getting a type of facial massage. I was asked to take my clothes off, place them in my wooden locker, and lay face down on the bed adjacent to her.
The masseuse giving the facial massage spoke a little bit of English, but mine didn't speak any. She was a little Chinese girl, around my age. She rubbed my back with oil then started massaging my back. She would rub the skin really really fast so my back felt hot, then slow down again. It was very relaxing and lasted about 15 minutes. (During this time they were chatting in Chinese and I caught the word for "fat," after which they asked if I had a baby. That made me feel good.) After the massage she took out a piece of flat, black cow horn that was rounded on one end and straight on the other with a chip out of the middle. She would press down with the edge of the horn and scrape all the way down my back. It didn't really hurt, but when it got to a point where I started thinking, "Ouch, this hurts a little," she would move to a different part of my back. It lasted for about twenty minutes.
The Chinese believe that when a person is ill it is due to stagnant blood that builds up just below the surface of the skin. The stagnant skin holds toxins in it and makes a person sick. By scraping the skin in this way, the stagnant blood is forced to circulate, oxygenate, and become healthy again, thereby making the person healthy. The sicker you are, the more stagnant blood you have. When they scrape your back it moves the blood, and the sicker you are the darker and splotchier your back will look when they scrape it.
As she scraped my back the other masseuse translated, "Your body is *very* unhealthy. You should take care of your body." At the end of the massage they had me look in the mirror. It looked like someone had beaten me. I took this picture more than six hours afterwards.

It isn't as painful as it looks. My back was a little bit tender (and still is today) but I am feeling a lot better. I wouldn't say I'm completely cured, but the massage definitely helped. The difference between Chinese cold medicine and American cold medicine is that the Chinese medicine helps to cure you, while I feel like American medicine only masks the symptoms. I'm interested to see how long it looks like I was attacked.